BLACK FRIDAY, THE SKY AND THE SEA ICE

Just in case anyone is wondering, yes there are Black Friday sales in Barrow…or at least one.  The printed fabric at the dry cleaners that doubles as the local fur and fabric shop was half off.  No long lines or waiting until mid-night to do shopping here.

The sun has sunk below the horizon and won’t make its appearance again for just over two months, but the sky is not altogether dark yet.  In fact it’s the most beautiful deep satin blue early and late in the day and a light, pastel blue and pink around noon and for several hours if there is no cloud cover.  It’s breathtaking.  It will be growing darker and darker and then will gradually become lighter and lighter by spring and then light for 24 hours a day during the summer months. 

I don’t think that I’ll mind this at all…it’s an interesting way to live and much conversation revolves around basic things with laughter about survival and coping strategies.  It’s interesting to see the effect this sort of environment has on people.  I haven’t heard anyone complain about anything and or become frustrated by any situation.  I know my perspective is limited but it does feel good to be seeing predominantly independence, interdependence, and teamwork in the people and relationships here. 

My feet have been hurting lately due to the cold temperatures we’ve been having this past week…the coldest reaching -23 ᵒ F for several days.  In keeping with the spirit of non-complaining, I like to think of this as more of an observation.  It’s also a wake-up call that frost biting my feet would quickly end my career here.  I was advised to give felt inserts in my boots a try while waiting to purchase warmer ones when in Anchorage next Monday.  I installed the liners and walked for over an hour this afternoon, drinking in the colors of the sky, the view of the ice on the ocean and taking photos along the way.  My feet grew cold, so I wiggled my toes while walking, determined to not damage them anymore than I might have already.  I’m happily surprised tonight that there is no pain underfoot.  People tell me that it will be dropping to -40 ᵒ F and then to -60ᵒ F and that it happens suddenly, so am still planning on buying warmer boots. 

I wear my big puffy warm mittens when outside, but have been challenged with being able to take pictures with them on.  Today I discovered that if I carry a single light glove that I can exchange it for the bulky one, take the photos with some degree of comfort and then switch back, avoiding having exposed hands and touching the near frozen metal on my camera. 

Looking out over the ice covered ocean was beautiful and filled my mind with centuries of whaling expeditions by the Inupiat people.  It gave me an appreciation too for the generosity expressed at the Feast, giving away so much of what must have taken much skill, collaboration, cooperation and fortitude to accomplish.  I do understand the happiness I see in most people here though.  The snow, ice and sky drive a sense of calm and peaceful joy to the center of one’s heart.