THE FEAST AND MEETING THE MAYOR
I
walked across the lagoon to the Thanksgiving Feast carrying a bag with my two
loaves of pumpkin bread, the requisite plate, bowl, utensils and several gallon-sized
zip lock bags that attendees were invited to bring in order to take home soup,
whale meat and muktuk. I hadn’t made
plans to attend with any new friends having been in Point Lay and then Nuiqsut
as well as being busy at the Barrow clinic, so I went alone. I might have stayed home, but the thought of missing
out on the opportunity to see how the Inupiat people spend their Thanksgiving and
to try some of the traditional native food pushed me along until I was there. I entered a large room at the Assembly of God
Church and saw row after row of people sitting…talking, eating, laughing and children
playing happily with each other. At the
door was a long table of large pots of soup.
I asked an Inupiat woman standing nearby what the soups were made with
and she pointed out two that were caribou and a fruit soup before she asked me
who I was. I told her my name and that I’d
moved up from the Seattle area to work as a public health nurse, that I’d been
raised in Fairbanks, had lived in Anchorage and had always wanted to come back
to Alaska. She said that her name was
Dora and that she’d made one of the caribou soups and then proceeded to
envelope me with a warm and strong hug, saying, “welcome home, Susi!” I guess one is never really alone here = )
Around
the corner was a table filled with desserts of all kinds. I found a place for my pumpkin bread and soon
observed that although many people seemed to be done with their meals that no
one was taking desserts. I watched as
young men and women carried big plastic tubs filled with large dark chunks,
stopping at each row and asking people if they wanted to put some in their
bags. When they came my way, I learned
that they were passing out frozen whale meat and was given two. After several more distributions of whale
meat, the tubs were filled with a light pink substance sandwiched in between dark
layers. I learned that this was muktuk,
the fat and skin of the whale and that the meat previously passed out was the
muscle. When my turn came, because I hadn’t
tried muktuk before, I asked how much they would recommend I start out
with. The young woman serving me said
that she thought that about 15 would be good.
I’ll have enough to share with friends here who might like to try it and
to bring to Anchorage to share with my cousins, Aunt and a friend. Such a generous custom.
I
stood against a wall near the kitchen, thinking that it would be a good spot to
take some photos and a man standing nearby suggested that I get a photo of his
nephew carrying a tub of muktuk. Something
about him seemed familiar and I realized that it was the mayor of Barrow, Bob
Harcharek. I’d read about him on the City
of Barrow’s website and was interested in his background and education as well
as his hobby of growing plants. I
enjoyed talking with him, especially hearing about his love of helping young
people to become physically fit and confident by involving them in
wrestling. He admitted to being a surrogate
father to many of the young people in Barrow…that it brings him a lot of joy to
see their lives turned around for the better.
His house and office both sound as though they’re filled with plants of
many kinds including his latest attempt to grow artichokes…very fun hearing
about. He pointed out a young man carrying
a tub of muktuk who recently began wresting and who had lost quite a bit of
weight and was leading a healthier life style.
Bob asked if I would take a photo of them together (see below).
I
also enjoyed talking with a young woman from Anchorage who had moved to Barrow
to enroll in the Electrical program at Ilisagvik College. She’d met a recruiter at a college fair and
thought she would give it a try. She and
a friend were there enjoying the feast and also having their bags filled with whale
meat and muktuk to share with others at their dorm. She said that living in Barrow was very
different than living in Anchorage, but that she loved it.
I
heard a woman at the dessert table asking for volunteers. I began to understand that it was the custom
to have all of the people sit while servers brought food. This might ensure that everyone gets some and
that the room, completely filled with people, doesn’t become chaotic. I told the woman that I’d be happy to help,
feeling on the receiving end of so much kindness and seeing that the pumpkin
bread I’d brought was being sliced and probably ready to be shared. She asked me to find several boys to help me
carry a large caldron of fruit soup among the rows of people, filling their
bags and containers. Two young Inupiat boys
and I carried it, surprisingly without spilling and proceeded to ask people we
stopped by if they’d like some to eat now or to take home. Bob’s wife had made the soup and it had a
reputation for being very good, filled with simmering apricots, apples, raisins
and coconut. One of the boys dashed off
while the remaining boy, Noah, and I carried our caldron from row to row,
stopping to serve and fill bags and containers.
He looked up and smiled at me halfway through our job, asking if the pot
felt as though it was getting lighter.
It was = ).
We
stopped to serve a woman who had a plate filled with small pieces of
muktuk. It looked like a serving plate so
after a minute of hesitation while filling her bag with soup, I asked if it
might be alright to try some of the muktuk, explaining that I’d never had it
before. She smiled and said that she was
happy to share, dipped a piece in a red sauce and gave it to me. It was very good…chewy and oily with a pleasant
taste, I think due to the sauce. She
said that I might like to try it salted, so she handed me another one with salt
and no sauce. I liked this piece too,
but not quite as much as the one with sauce.
She thought I might like to try one plain and watched as I tried it…muktuk
definitely needs sauce or salt = ).
I
helped wash dishes in the kitchen before leaving. I was so happy to have come, to have met some
very nice people and to have tried my first muktuk. I’ll have some fresh or in the freezer when
you all come to visit = ).
From
the City of Barrow’s website, http://www.cityofbarrow.org/content/view/40/31/
(City
of Barrow Mayor) Bob Harcharek has lived and worked on the North Slope for more
than 30 years. He earned a Ph.D. in International and Development Education
from the University of Pittsburgh in 1977. He served as a member of the Barrow
City Council for fifteen years since 1993 and is currently the Mayor and Chief
Administrative Officer for the City of Barrow.
Dr.
Harcharek recently retired from the North Slope Borough (NSB) as the Community
and Capital Improvement Projects (CIP) Planner for the Department of Public
Works. In his twenty-four years of employment with the NSB, he has served as
Senior Planner and Social Science Researcher, CIP and Economic Development
Planner, Community Affairs Coordinator for the NSB Department of Public Safety,
Director of the North Slope Higher Education Center (now known as Ilisagvik
College), and Socio-cultural Scientist for the NSB Department of Wildlife
Management. Prior to that, he served as Director of Technical Assistance for
Upkeagvik Inupiat Corporation, and Dean of the Inupiat University of the
Arctic.
Bob
served for 3 1/2 years as a Peace Corps volunteer in Thailand and was also a
Fulbright-Hays Professor of Multicultural Development in Thailand. He has
served as a member of numerous boards of directors, including the North Slope
Borough Board of Education, the Alaska Association of School Boards, the Alaska
School Activities Association and the Northern Justice Society. Mayor Bob
currently serves on the Board of Directors of the Alaska Muncipal League.
When not playing with his grandchildren, Bob spends most of his spare time growing decorative plants and vegetables in his office and home and working with the youth of our community, particularly coaching wrestling. Bob has been a volunteer assistant wrestling coach for the Barrow High School for the past fourteen years.
Bob Harcharek was appointed to the State of Alaska Local Boundary Commission from the State’s Second Judicial District on July 18, 2002 by then-Governor Knowles and was reappointed by Governor Murkowski. In March 2008, Governor Palin reappointed him to the LBC. He then became the senior and longest serving member on the Commission. Upon the expiration of that term, Gov. Sean Parnell subsequently appointed Mayor Harcharek another term. His current term on the LBC ends January 31, 2014.
When not playing with his grandchildren, Bob spends most of his spare time growing decorative plants and vegetables in his office and home and working with the youth of our community, particularly coaching wrestling. Bob has been a volunteer assistant wrestling coach for the Barrow High School for the past fourteen years.
Bob Harcharek was appointed to the State of Alaska Local Boundary Commission from the State’s Second Judicial District on July 18, 2002 by then-Governor Knowles and was reappointed by Governor Murkowski. In March 2008, Governor Palin reappointed him to the LBC. He then became the senior and longest serving member on the Commission. Upon the expiration of that term, Gov. Sean Parnell subsequently appointed Mayor Harcharek another term. His current term on the LBC ends January 31, 2014.
It is such a privilege to be able to experience through your eyes a distinct and different culture. How interesting that people adapt to such extreme conditions and have a tradition of communal sharing of resources. Thanks for taking the time to write in detail about your experiences. Its good to see the photos so I can visualize what you wrote about. Watch out for extreme temperatures - I suggest when its -60, don't try it alone the first time.
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