BARROW, WEEK 3…I’M IN LOVE

…with Barrow, its people, their culture, the landscape, and the climate.

When asking most people who aren’t Inupiat how to get somewhere, they’ll say something like, “follow the road along the (Tasigarook) lagoon past the post office, turn at the bank building and go about three blocks and what you’re looking for is on the left.”  Or they might say, take the dike road (between the Lower and Upper Isatkoak Lagoons), turn right on Ahkovak Street and it’s down a few blocks on your left.”   Street names include Apayauk, Egasak, Pisokak, Kiogak, Nanook, Nachik, Kongek, Kiogak, Nachik, Aivik, Egasak, Agvik, Momegana, Itta, Okpik, Panigeo, Karluk, Herman, Boxer, Eben Hopson and Laura Madison as well as a dozen others.  I’m curious about the Inupiat ones and what they mean and also the last few, wondering what their name sakes’ roles were here in the community earning them perpetual notoriety.  Memorizing street names is eluding me, but I enjoy practicing saying them…by the time I have visitors here, I’ll be at least able to say, “take Ogrook Street, turn slightly left on Ahkovak, turn right onto North Star and you’ll find yourself in front of the Tuzzy Library and the Inupiat Heritage Center.  From there, if you turn left onto Ahkovak Street and keep walking, you’ll find yourself on the beach, looking out over the Beaufort Sea.”   

I caught a ride to Browerville with a woman by the last name of Leavitt and asked if she was related to another person by that last name that I met recently.  She said that she was and told me that while growing up here in Barrow during her early school years, almost all of the children had one of three last names--Brower, Leavitt or Hopson.  All of her classmates and herself are descendants of mixed marriages between early white whalers Charlie Brower, George Leavitt and Fred Hopson and their Inupiat wives.  Those names are still the most predominant here.

My walk to work on Thursday was the coldest and windiest yet.  I think the temperature was 9 degrees F, but with the 20-30 mph head wind, making forward progress was difficult.  There were several times when I had to turn around and walk backwards to catch my breath.  Keeping my glasses on and one of my mittened hands above my eyes helped to deter the blast of snow into my eyes.  I loved it though and it felt good several hours later to still feel a burning sensation at a cellular level from the cold that had penetrated my layers of clothing.  I think this weather is just what my metabolism needs--some excitement and a good jump start.  As much as I love Washington, rainy days just don’t provide this optimum climate for my feeling alive and healthy.  I’m wondering if I should start anticipating a flock of others seeking optimal health journeying up?  If so, just let me know what time your flight lands and I’ll be there to say “Paglagivsigin!”

Because of the strong winds, no planes were landing in Barrow that day.  Era, the flying service that transports to the villages, closed down, cancelling all flights.  This necessitated Michelle and one of the nursing students who had been with her in Nuiqsut since Monday staying an additional night, returning to Barrow Friday morning.  Michelle says that the four days at the village clinics are very long and intense and to be detained an extra day is always rough.  Bertrand prefers to fly out of the villages on Friday mornings, so he and the student who accompanied him to Atqusak for the week weren’t detained there any longer than normal, but were glad to be back.  They’ll fly to Kaktovik, an all-day flight on Monday for a health fair being held there.  The Alaska Airlines plane Darlene was on from Fairbanks was forced to return to Anchorage, but was able to land in Barrow later that night.  The topics of conversation here are so interesting…am loving this environment.